Flannel dates back to 17th-century Wales when carded wool was brushed and woven to create a fabric that could stand up to cold, wet weather. Plaid is the pattern most closely linked with flannel, dating all the way back to 3rd-century tartans worn by Scots to identify their clans—but it wasn’t until the 19th century, thanks to American and British manufacturing, that flannel shirting featuring modern plaids became popular for everyday work and leisure.

Decade after decade, flannel’s rugged style has made it the shirt of choice for exploring, laboring and beyond. From cowboys in the Old West to railroad workers during the Industrial Revolution, steel workers in the mid-20th century, and makers and adventurers today, flannel has proven itself as a wardrobe mainstay.

Beyond associations with labor, flannel shirts have their place in important cultural moments, like London’s early mod scene beginning in the late ‘50s and during the heyday of grunge in the Pacific Northwest. For the artists, musicians and rebels of these subcultures, flannel was the perfect symbol of rebellion.

Whether you’re layering a flannel button-up over a tee, wearing flannel as an overshirt or tying it around your waist, you can’t go wrong. More than just an item of clothing, a flannel shirt is a celebration of personal style—and our look back over the decades in honor of National Flannel Day is just a taste of what’s still to come for this tried and true essential.